Are you in the market for a new sewing machine? Whether you are interested in quilting, crafting, or dressmaking, this list will help you make the investment a wise one. A cheap sewing machine will only frustrate and discourage you, so buy the best machine you can afford. If you have a limited budget, it is usually worthwhile to seek out a local sewing machine dealer with a good reputation and ask about used machines. Some reconditioned “better” machines will cost about the same as a new machine of lesser quality. A reputable dealer will often provide a limited warranty on these machines and/or lessons on how to use the machine. He will be able to service what he sells and provide accessories and a manual. The list here is specifically focused on quiltmaking. In a multi-purpose sewing machine, you will also want to see and test the buttonhole process at the store before you buy! An adjustment to a “free arm” is important. You will want to have zipper, rolled hem, blind hem and some other feet. Those are usually included with a new machine.
- The needle can sew in three positions – a needle that can be moved to the right or the left gives you more freedom to adjust your seam allowance while keeping the fabric on both feed dogs.
- The machine can be set to stop with the needle up or the needle down.
- The flatbed sewing surface is big and smooth. In dressmaking, a narrow free arm is useful, but for a large, flat quilt, you want a working table big enough to spread out and support the weight of the quilt. If the bed of the machine is not very large, it should have a built-in extension or flat bed table accessory that slides up alongside of it. These can be purchased separately or made by a handy husband!
- The foot pedal and electrical cords are long enough for comfort and safety.
- It has a good bright light. Make sure the light actually shines in the right place. Ascertain that replacement light bulbs can be obtained and installed easily.
- The feed dogs drop down to disengage. Those little snap-on feed dog covers are a nuisance.
- The pressure on the presser foot can be adjusted – this controls how heavily the presser foot lies on the fabric underneath it. When you do free-motion machine quilting, you need to be able to move the layered quilt around easily under the foot.
- It has a “lock stitch” that secures the ends of the stitching lines neatly and precisely.
- It has a good straight (not slanted) buttonhole or blanket stitch. This stitch is often used for machine appliqué, both decorative and invisible.
- Its accessories are readily available and affordable. Some of the top quality machines require you to use their specialized feet, which can cost up to five times as much as the generic low shank feet. Even if you are willing to pay for the attachments, you want to be able to purchase them conveniently. Make sure that they are easy to change.
- It comes with a good owner’s manual – preferably written by someone whose native language is English.
- A sturdy machine can accommodate a variety of threads. If the seller tells you that it can only tolerate a certain brand of thread, start looking for a better “workhorse” machine – maybe an older used one. They are not so temperamental.
- It has a convenient and sharp thread cutter built into the machine.
- Most machines use a standard-sized needle, but do check on that. You don’t want to have to special-order needles.
- There is a local dealer who will honor your warranty. I really do recommend buying your sewing machine, new or used, from a reputable dealer who knows how to maintain and repair the machines he sells. If you are buying a new machine, he should offer a good warranty and free classes in how to use it. Look for at least a partial warranty, even on a used machine, if you are buying a computerized sewing machine.
For free-motion quilting, (stippling), you will need a darning foot. This foot has a spring or hinge and it’s nice if it is open in the front so you can catch the thread ends and see where you are going.
For straight-line quilting and for sewing the binding on your quilt, you will need a walking foot. This is a box-like contraption that is also called an even feed foot (we called it a plaid-matcher foot 30 years ago!) Some of the newer machines have this feature built into them. You want to be able to disengage it when you don’t want to use it.
A 1/4″ piecing foot is used to achieve a perfect seam allowance. I prefer to use an all-purpose foot, move my needle into the right position and use my first plate line as a guide, because then the fabric is pressed down firmly on both feed dogs and on both sides of the seam. Usually, the use of the 1/4″ foot positions the fabrics only on one feed dog, so they tend to pull to the left.
Your Dealer, Your Friend
Test-drive the sewing machine before you buy it. Bring your own fabrics, because the ones available in the stores are usually stiffened for a nicer-looking finish. Bring some calico and a small “quilt sandwich” of calico and batting. Test every stitch and see if the store owner will let you try specialty threads in it. The dealer is almost as important as the machine itself!
If the dealer is unfriendly and uncooperative during the sales process, he is unlikely to improve when you are looking for help later. Comparison shop. Don’t be afraid to “haggle”, especially for a used machine. Ask about its history. Ask what “reconditioned” means to him. A reputable dealer with a long-term business vision will see you as an investment in his own future. He knows that if you buy a basic machine today and are encouraged by its easy and reliable operation (and his good customer service), you will probably want to upgrade eventually. You will recommend him to others. Word-of-mouth advertising and customer loyalty are important to these small businesses. If you find a good dealer, your machine is doubled in value!